During The Canterbury Tales my skills and
abilities as a costume maker have been pushed to new boundaries where both my
technical and construction skills have been heavily challenged. Taking on board
the pointers from my last assessment, I asked to make the costume for The Wife
of Bath, who is quite a big and bolshie character and well known within the
play. The fabrics used on her costume were ones, which I had yet to work with,
and were quite rich in texture.
From a technical perspective I faced the
challenges of trying to turn my actress from a size 12 to a size 16-18 UK dress
size with a 36G bust. This meant making
an understructure that wouldn’t show through the top material. I experimented
with certain paddings for both and drew the conclusion a padded bra and bum pad
would work best. The padded bra worked well and though the wadding had to be
checked before the garments were worn it gave the actress a rather impressive
bust. The bum pad extended the skirt out
to give the required shape and as it was hidden by the bloomers they were not
visible to the eye. I also had to experiment
with pleating to make the skirt more full and accommodate the additional
understructure. Before this project I
found pleats a nightmare, as I could never make them even. However after the
first calico sample I found a technique that worked and allowed me to improve
on the technique. These experiments have been to my advantage and though took time
to do; I found that I have a greater knowledge of the technical process of
construction.
Another major challenge was working with a
designer, tutor and outside lecturers. I have had to adapt to creating the
vision of the designer as well as following the decisions of the lecturers.
During the final stages of the show I found my skirts train had to be cut,
though the designer originally wanted the train, it was hindering the actress during a scene. The lecturer cut the skirt and though originally upset that
this had happened, once the reason had been explained I came to the
understanding that it doesn’t matter if the production was in house or in the
West End, within the industry this can happen.
You have a duty to keep the actress safe and the garment must not hinder
them.
Although this is my most successful project
to date, there are some parts I would change. The finishing’s on the tunic were to a satisfactory standard, however now that I have a greater understanding of the richer materials I would change the application process. In
future I shall baste the fur down first and then hand stitch it down
securely. As well as this the modesty
panel on the tunic could have less tacks, which would allow the fabric to be
more free flow.
Overall I am pleased with how I have
developed under this project and the final garments. As a
result of this I have grown in confidence and feel I am more competent within the construction of garments. I would like the opportunity in the future to advance my skills and try different techniques and resources, enabling the ability to individualise each costume, making them unique.
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