Wednesday 31 October 2012

The alteration stretch, day one

The final hurdle has now set in for the show. This week is the intensive week where everything needs to get finished ready for the dress parade. The dress parade is a bit like and inspection for the costume, making sure the costume designer, director and our course leader approve of our costumes and if not what parts need to be changed.  This is so that all last minuet things may be sorted before the performance.

However before the dress parade comes the alterations and amendments which were needed from the second fittings. Today has been all about the skirt and following the fitting amendments sheet which included:



  • Remove one pleat either side of the CB line
  • Make sure a secure fastening is fitted as actress is being dragged across the table.
  • Hem line must be 24cm from balance line draping down into the train
  • Bias tape hem line
  • Overlock all seams in the same colour as fabric


Removing one pleat either side of the CB line was quite simplistic to begin with, however as I no longer had any more cotton/wool blend fabric so I had to try and take a certain amount out of the waistband to accommodate the extra amount of fabric. It concerned me that by doing this the finishing of the skirt would be inadequate and that I had not left enough which could be turned under and slipstitched. However a 0.5 cm allowance was left at each end so this could, with a lot of heavy pressing from a hot iron, hold a flat edge long enough to secure each end with a solid slip stitch. Normally a slip stitch only uses a single thread and used to bind fabrics together, however I decided to double up the threads to add to the security. The waistband will be the most heavily used part of the skirt structure, it will take the physical restraint when the actress is dragged across the table, as well as from the extended movement and physical activities required within The Canterbury Tales. This being said I also added extra stitches to the fastenings, especially the hook and bars as these will be holding the entire garment up. The second bar has been moved 3mm outwards to allow extra room for the actress, this can be hidden underneath the tunic so if there is an issue during the performance it may be resolved and hidden. All of the seams were overlocked once the waistband was corrected. Using the same pink threads that were used for sewing the garment each seam was overlocked together. Once this was done I found out a very useful piece of information from my lecturer. When overlocking, always overlock each side of the seam separately and not together. This is so that when the garment is ironed the seam shall lay flat. She has said to leave the seams now they have been done as in this instance it shall not effect the garment. However in future I shall take her advice and work all my seams so they are flat. 


After a very long day dealing with the alterations, I decided that in the best interests of the garment to work on the balance line the second day of working instead of cramming everything in to one and making mistakes.





Tuesday 30 October 2012

Second fitting ..... bit of a tug and measure



The second fittings for Wife of bath went fairly smoothly, though every fitting has a few road bumps. The actress felt comfortable in the costume though the back of the skirt will have to be let out slightly due to it constricting her movement. The under sleeves of the tunic were my real concern as I fitted them to the actresses measurements and they were quite tight on her. It has been decided that if I give an extra 3cm arm room in the sleeve it will allow for added muscle and comfort, as well as making the top half  of the sleeve out of light weight calico and the bottom in the cotton/wool blend. This will reduce the bulk and allow the actress freedom to move. After much debate it was also decided that to make sure the skirt was level throughout, a base line should be used. This was quite new to me and I found out that if you measure from a certain point and use the same measurement all the way around the skirt pinning the cm as you go this can act as a measure line to getting the skirt the correct length all the way around. This will help during the final stages before binding the garment.


Below is the fitting sheet which shows the tasks which need to be performed before dress parade. These will have to be scheduled into the time schedule so I can keep on track and onto of the work load.




BA (Hons) Costume with Performance Design

Female Fitting Form

Production:
The Canterbury Tales
Date:
30th October 2012
Artist:
Diana Winter
Character:
Wife of Bath
Cutter:
Tanya Pye










Skirt:
  • Remove 1 pleat either side of the CB line
  • Make sure a secure fastening is fitted as actress is being dragged across the table.
  • Hem line must be 24cm from balance line draping down into the train
  • Bias tape hem line
  • Overlock all seams in the same colour as fabric




Tunic:
  • Only lace the sides of the tunic slightly to create shape.  (follow pins)
  • Under sleeves need to be let out 3 cm each
  • Top sleeve needs to be shortened by 10cm
  • Fit of the sleeve is now correct
  • Lower sleeve must length must come down to the hand. Lace up the sides for a tight fit.
  • Lower the neckline more to a boat neck shape, mimic cut of left side.
  • Centre front cut open to placed pin
  • Add channel around the neckline and put a cord through to slightly gather.
  • Add draped shawl around the collar area and tack in place.  
  • Add brown leather thronging to the lace up arms, tunic sides, centre front gap and belt. (Being sourced)
  • Belt size, 85cm with lace up back. (re-make as this is being replaced with real leather)
Diana in the Wife of Bath Costume






Personal Reflection:

Once again I have learnt some new techniques which shall really help with my future progress within costume. I took the forefront of the fitting again and I must admit I do rather enjoy this process. Diana, the actress felt comfortable within the costume as well as able to use full movement. The arms in the tunic are the only major issue which needs to be rectified, though I am also concerned about the neckline. Once the slit at the front has been cut to reveal the bust it shall relieve the tunics strain slightly



Monday 29 October 2012

Updated work plan


As the time draws closer to the deadline I have made a more in depth work plan so I may keep on top of my studies and plan what needs to be done. To make sure my work is complete I have set myself mini deadlines to work to. Below is the new work plan as well as what shall be completed and when e.g. skirt amendments in top fabric must be finished by 1st november as this is the last mention of it on my planner.

Work Plan

Date
Learning
Personal Development

Week 1



Tuesday 2nd October
Briefing
Meet the designer
Assign Designs
Write personal blog
Wednesday 3rd October
Group work (
Learning Agreement
Research into play & character
Character analysis
Thursday 4th October
Measurement taking of actors/actresses
Write personal blog
Friday 5th October
Investigative Studies Brief
Write personal blog
Saturday 6th/ Sunday 7th October

Buy Calico for Toile
Write up learning agreement
Research into character

Week 2



Monday 8th October
Weekly Production meeting
Padding the Mannequin

Tuesday 9th October
Padding the actress
Write personal blog
Character breakdown
Wednesday 10th October
Skirt Toile
Costume breakdown
Thursday 11th October
Skirt Toile

Friday 12th October
Tunic Toile
Dissertation Meeting
Investigative studies lecture
Disability Mentoring
Saturday 13th/ Sunday 14th October
Skirt toile
Write personal blog
Dissertation research

Week 3



Monday 15th October
Weekly Production meeting
Tunic Toile
Skirt Toile
Write personal blog

Tuesday 16th October
Tunic Toile
Belt Toile
EMP Briefing
Write personal blog

Wednesday 17th October
Fittings for toile
Write personal blog

Thursday 18th October
Production meeting
Receive Fabrics
Write up previous days amendments
Research materials
Write personal blog

Friday 19th October
Alter Patterns
Skirt Construction (top fabric)
Investigative Study
Research into specific alterations
Write personal blog
Disability Mentoring
Saturday 20th/ Sunday 21th October
Alter Patterns
Dissertation research
Write personal blog


Week 4



Monday 22nd October
Skirt Construction (top fabric)
Research fastenings
Tuesday 23rd October
Skirt Construction (top fabric)
Write personal blog
Research fastenings
Wednesday 24th October
Skirt Construction (top fabric)

Thursday 25th October
Tunic Construction (top fabric)
Write personal blog

Friday 26th October
Tunic Construction (top fabric)
Write personal blog
Disability Mentoring
Saturday 27th / Sunday 28th October
Garment Checks


Week 5



Monday 29th October
Production meeting
Belt construction (top fabric)

Tuesday 30th October
      Second Fittings (see separate time sheet)
Write personal blog

Wednesday 31st October
Skirt Amendments (top fabric)

Write personal blog
Disability mentoring
Thursday 1st November
Skirt Amendments (top fabric)
Tunic Amendments (top fabric)
Write personal blog

                     Friday 2nd November
Tunic Amendments (top fabric)
Write personal blog
Make roses
Saturday 3rd/ Sunday 4th November
Tunic Amendments (top fabric)
Garment Checks


Week 6



Monday 5th November
Dress Parade
Write personal blog

Tuesday 6th November
Final Alterations
Help with Puppets
Alter sultans hat
Wednesday 7th November
Final Alterations
Write personal blog
Help make roses
Disability Mentoring
Thursday 8th November
Performance

Friday 9th November
Performance

Saturday 10th / Sunday 11th November
Performance
Dress actors/actresses
Monday 12th November

Write personal blog

Wednesday 14th November
Write Evaluation