Monday 27 May 2013

Evaluation


Evaluation Of EMP
The Mad Hatters Charity Tea Party


During this EMP unit my skills and abilities as a costume maker and workshop coordinator have been pushed to new boundaries where my social, ethical and cultural skills along with my construction skills have been heavily challenged. Taking on board the pointers from my last assessment, I decided to work with The Mad Hatters Charity Tea Party, which is a large event held in Portsmouth that raises money for Cystic Fibrosis Kids. Realising Elizabeth Cooke’s designs, this project has allowed me to combine textural methods throughout both costumes and tea party set up, as well as teach some of the textural methods to others through workshops.

From a technical perspective with both of the costumes, I faced the challenges of creating an animal outfit for the March Hare that wouldn’t overheat the actor. For the White Queen, a dress which had a full skirt that could support a crinoline, bodice which allowed the actress to move freely and rich fabrics which looked regal but fitted within the charities budget. This meant choosing materials and fastenings, which would help with these issues.

For the March Hares shirt I originally looked at digitally printing fur onto a specially coated cotton fabric. However after several attempts of trying to tile the fur so that it became a continuous pattern it was found that trying to take a 3D effect and transferring it to 2D print only gave a flat colour image and wouldn’t pick up any of the desired texture. Once discussed with the director and designer it was decided to change the shirt to a gingham pattern. This was in keeping with the events theme and character as well as remaining a light fabric choice that wouldn’t hinder the actor.

The boater hat also required scaling and experimentation. The original design shows one crochet teacup on a hat with a green ribbon and ears. However after creating various size cups and pinning them together and testing this on the hat it was decided to add another two cups scaling to a smaller size each time, a crochet doily and various cakes.

I also experimented with pleating for the White Queens dress to make the skirt more full and accommodate the additional understructure. Before this project I found pleats a nightmare, as I could never make them even. However after the first calico sample I found a way that worked and allowed me to improve on the technique. During fittings it was decided to combine the front and side panels of the skirt meaning my original pleating was doubled and a box pleat had to be added to the sides of the skirt to increase the amount of fabric in the skirt and hide the side seams. I struggled to get my head around this initially as I had to double the fabric behind each pleat and layer these. As I was used to pleating in neat lines with each one being exactly matching it took time to adapt.

The workshops are my greatest achievement within this project. I have been teaching 10 different groups, both able and disabled, various knitting and crochet techniques that could later be turned into assorted tea party items such as cakes and savories. An issue I ran into was that I had to change my teaching techniques in accordance to the age/ ability of the group, everybody has a preferred learning technique and combining all these into a singular lesson sparked some concern amongst the parents of some of the children I was teaching. I decided the best thing to do was to place the children into groups of 7-10 and then focus on the best way of learning for them. I found that making up examples of finished products became a positive motivator for the younger children as they had a visual and tactile image of what they could make. The adult groups were much easier to teach and more responsive to changes in patterns.

To prepare for each session I had to make sure I had a learning plan in place and examples of what was being constructed that session. For the younger students I also had a star chart system to monitor behavior and a star of the lesson award, which were a set of coloured knitting needles and a ball of wool for the student who tried the hardest. Something I emphasized throughout was that it didn’t matter what the outcome of the session was for each student so long they tried there hardest and felt that they achieved something.

One specific case is Stephan. He is a special needs child who has severe ADHD and found it hard to concentrate on the smallest of tasks. However since taking the workshops he has been more aware of his actions and his behavior has improved both at home and within school. At the beginning he found the sessions pointless and a task that he didn’t want to do. However after speaking to him and trying to understand thing from his point of view, we created a five step achievement plan showing what he wanted to come out of the lessons with his reward being a day trip to Monkey Land and Hobby Craft so he may buy his own set of hooks and his favorite ball of wool. His fifth goal was to come out of his spelling test with a C or higher as he had never got a higher grade than an E and was failing most of his homework tasks. He has achieved all five of his goals and has scored a B- in his latest spelling test. Whenever he started to get frustrated he took out his hook and ball of wool and focused on that until he found he was happy again. This shows that through crochet and knitting a kind of therapy has formed which he is responsive to. It brings about the question of whether this can help others in similar situations

Overall I am pleased with how I have developed under this project and the final garments and tea party set. As a result of this I have grown in confidence and feel I am more competent within the construction of garments and teaching.  I would like the opportunity within the future to advance my skills and try different techniques and resources, enabling the ability to pass these onto others and become a professional workshop coordinator.

Sunday 26 May 2013

Its all done, Reflection on the costumes

 After the photo shoot issue I decided to use a mannequin to take final photos of the two finished costumes. 



The March Hares costume has been both a joy and a complication in some respects.The shirt was my biggest challenge as I had to adapt the pattern to fit the needs of the actress. As well as this it is now a female playing the character instead of the male which was originally designed for. To keep this in mind the bow tie has been removed and the shirt shall now be open at the neck. I feel this shall be a better option for the actress as she shall be running around the field a lot during the day. The waistcoat is effective and resembles the design well. I had to create a new stitch to make the edging by making a quadruple treble stitch. Out of the garments this was the piece I enjoyed making the most.  If I were to do this again I would try and complete the shirt first and change my time plan around to accommodate the extra time needed on the garments I am not as certain over.

The White Queen dress was quite time consuming but the effect of the dress was worth the extra time dedicated to making all the roses. At the finish point the dress had just over 160m of ribbon tied into little roses. These each took a minuet each, however once on the roll could be created a lot quicker. The pleating was the hard part on the dress as I needed to fit 7m of fabric into the skirt. Each of my pleats were quite precise and flat, however what was needed was for the pleats to overlap to take in more of the fabric. I was also shown how to place the box pleat in the side of the dress to hide the seams. Due to the fabric being quite bulky the seams looked quite ugly so this prevented them from being seen. If I were to do this again I would maybe request a change of fabric and buy the roses. The fabric chosen  puckers quite a lot under the smallest of needles so sewing the roses was quite a delicate procedure. the roses though beautiful took a lot of time to make. If there was a team working on these or if they were brought in from a manufacturer it would save both time and effort which could be dedicated to other areas.

The piece I enjoyed working on the most was the Hat. This was due to the crochet work involved and the challenge of creating the various cups. The entire piece it quite an attraction in itself and shows off the characteristics of the March Hare well. The buttons were an issue as they kept dragging the green ribbon down due to the weight, however I found that a dab of hot glue stuck both the button and the ribbon to the hat and increased the bond to the hat. The ears are made out of a used milk bottle, washed out and fake fur. This really has kept the structure needed without being harmful to anyone and there not sharp around the edges meaning less risk over all. The fur has bonded with contact glue and thankfully has held the ears to the hat as well.  In the future now I have got confidence within my textural skills I shall keep the tea cup patterns and just increase/ decrease stitches to save time. I have had a request for a hat with tea cups on so the pattern can be kept and the wool changed.



Friday 24 May 2013

You don't always get what you want

Today was a slight disaster as far as timings go and trying to coordinate a large group of people. The original plan to fit top fabric to the March Hare and take photographs of the White Queen and March Hare for promotional material went sideways after other commitments got in the way. As well as this the photographer was double booked for another engagement.

The main concern from this is that the March Hare has only had a calico twirl fitting and as my hand in for this unit is only a few day away, it is not looking likely a fitting shall happen before then. In light of this it has been decided that after the costumes have been assessed I shall conduct a final fitting on the March Hare and promotional material shall be created closer to the event. It was unfortunate however as it is during the school term for some of the actors and they have other acting commitments on top of this it is understandable.

As the event is on the 27th July I shall have plenty of time to do this fitting and at the decision of the director we shall be having a costume fitting day where all costumes shall be fitted to the actors. This shall be three weeks before the event.

Thursday 23 May 2013

A Little Solder

After a long day of teaching a crochet workshop to a group of children, I spent the evening soldering various leaf shapes into organza, using the soldering iron as a melting tool. Synthetic materials burn and melt away under the heat which gives an ideal finish to the leafs as it stops the material from fraying and keeps the shape that is originally created.

I started out by Drawing out some of the basic leaf shapes on a piece of paper and then using the soldering iron like a pencil, I practiced on some old organza pieces. Once I got the hand of it, I moved onto the light green version. As there was only two small amounts of the material, I had to make sure none was wasted and no mistakes were made.

Below are the final leafs which are to be used within the dress



Monday 20 May 2013

Work Plan for Week 20



Week 20



Monday 20th May
Presentation of costumes
Final Tutorials
Assessment
Write personal blog
Work in the arts bar 16.00-21.00
Tuesday 21st May
Interview for Workshop job

Write personal blog
Work in the arts bar 16.00-21.00
Wednesday 22nd May
Assessments

Write personal blog
Disability Mentoring
Work in the arts bar 16.00-21.00
Thursday 23rd May
Solder leafs

Friday 24th May
Double Check All Costumes
Teaching Workshop

Saturday 25th/ Sunday 26th    May
 Paperwork
Teaching Workshops

Friday 17 May 2013

How to make the shirt


How to make the patched shirt

1.     Draw pattern on pattern paper following the actors measurements. Make sure to follow each of the steps and add or subtract the amount of centimetres  required
2.     Pin, cut out, mark tack
3.     Stayflex  one piece of the collar, one part of the collar stand and one side of the placket
4.      Right sides together, sew collar using the stayflex as a guide, however do not sew over stayflex
5.     Fold inwards making sure the corners are pushed out and then iron flat
6.     Optional top stitch the collar 1 cm away from the edge
7.     R/S to R/S, pin and tack the shoulders of the back and two front parts of the shirt together.
8.     Sew together with a 1 cm seam allowance
9.     Overlock The seams of shirt and then iron flat
10.  Place plackets on shirt fronts (CF) making sure the placket with stayflex is on the left hand side
11.  Pin and tack sleeves to front and back of the shirt
12.  Pin and tack the side seams R/S to R/S
13.  Sew side seams and sleeves together with one continuous line.
14.  Top stitch
15.  Overlock all seams
16.  Sew on collar
17.  Place button holes on placket and buttons 

Thursday 16 May 2013

Im seeing Checks

The March Hare shirt construction has begun a few days ago beginning with drawing out a basic block shirt pattern and converting it to my actresses measurements. The shirt comprises of a front and back, sleeves, collar and stand along with cuffs. Matching up the pattern was originally tricky however after the third time I got a match and the pattern was continuous. I found that as the material was quite light it puckered easily under the sewing machines tension, so I had to be careful with the amount of handling on the fabric. I also originally struggled with the collar. However after speaking to Mandy, one of our lecturers, I realised that though the shirt had a built in collar stand it wasn't doing its job.  So to rectify this I measured along the shirts edge where the collar was supposed to be and built a collar stand which would sit along this line. I also shrank the collar by 0.5 each side to accommodate the new collar stand. This garment though simple stumped me in many ways and it took me time to problem solve the collar. As well as this I would have liked the button holes to be slightly smaller, however I had an issue with the sewing machine where the buttonhole system wasn't working, so I had to use a zig zag stitch and create them one at a time freehand.

I am happy with the way this garment has come out, however I feel that garment construction may not be my path any longer. I seem to be a lot more competent and confident with teaching and within a workshop environment.

Monday 13 May 2013

Work Plan for Week 19


Week 19



Monday 13th May
White Queen Dress Fastenings
Write personal blog
Work in the arts bar 16.00-21.00
Tuesday 14th May
White Queen Dress Fastenings

Diagram and Label/Description for exhibition
Work in the arts bar 16.00-21.00
Wednesday 15th May
Make shirt for March Hare
Tutorial

Write personal blog
Disability Mentoring
Work in the arts bar 16.00-21.00
Thursday 16th May
Make shirt for March Hare

Write personal blog
Work in the arts bar 16.00-21.00

Friday 17th May
Make shirt for March Hare
Teaching Workshop
 Travel to Chichester
Saturday 18th/ Sunday 19th    May
Paperwork
Teaching Workshop
Fittings for MHCTP
Write personal blog