A challenge and a few decisions

Over the past few days I have started making the toile for the Wife of Baths medieval skirt. I have been told by the designer that it must be full however keeping historically accurate and as close to the design as possible. I decided to drape the skirt on a padded out mannequin in order to gain the correct shape and also to further my skills. I have not draped any work on a stand since my first lessons over a year ago and feeling as this is a core part of costume construction I do need to improve my skills.

I began by pinning 2.5cm of the calico down the centre front, from the waist to the hips (to secure to the mannequin) then let the rest fall to the hem length. After this I measured out 3cm and placed a box pleat then continued this all the way around to the side seam. At the side seam another piece of calico was attached but gathered at 2cm intervals all the way around to the centre back, pinning whilst going around. Once I reached the centre back and took a step back from my experimentation, I found that it just looked like a ruffled skirt and not very accurate to the time period.

 In order to accommodate both the historical and design reference I have researched into the time period (Located in bound work book) and have found that so long I keep the front panel flat without any pleats or gathers in, and pleat around the side and back instead, it shall add the volume needed to create the silhouette and the costume will remain true to the designers work.

I have decided the next few days shall be dedicated to making sure the skirt is correct and is true to the designers vision. This decision does steer away from my original time plan however if I concentrate on the skirt for a block of time now  In order to keep this accurate I shall constantly refer to my research and the design as well as asking the designers view on the skirt. As a costume maker I can have a small amount of input as to how I think the skirt should sit however it is the designer who gets the final say. Thankfully I have a wonderful designer who listens and really does value others points of views. Through this I hope that we can come to a decision as to how the skirt shall sit and the over all style.