Tunic turmoil

After finishing the skirt the time has come to make the tunic. After speaking to the designer it was decided that a traditional 'T' shaped tunic would be suitable as a first draft and then shape it on the padded mannequin. After doing some research I found this link online:

http://www.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/How_To_-_Make_a_T_-_Tunic

I found this site really helpful as the final product made was a tunic similar to the one Lauren designed. Only differences were that the bottom would need to be rounded and a over sleeve placed over the thin sleeve. That being said within costume nothing is as easy as it seems.

The added in side triangles with the added 5cm

Once I started to pin this together I noticed that the gussets were to small so by adding an extra 3cm to all four side of the gusset would create the room needed. As well as this the sides of the tunic were to slimming and were designed to fit a size 12, not a size 16-18 which is the size were trying to create through padding the actress. It was noticed that once the padded bust and stomach were added it was bunching and we would not be able to create the desired shape. after sitting down and studying it, I calculated that if another 5 cm was added to the bottom of the side triangles it would create the extra room needed and increase the seam allowance.

The tunic once placed on the stand

Once the garment was constructed and placed on the stand my lecturer and I stood back and viewed it from all angles. We decided that this was unsuitable for the character as firstly it wasn't as historically accurate as well as this even with the gussets it would prove tricky for the actress to move. Her padded bust would be constantly tugging at the tunic due to the lack of curvature around the front panel. Even after adding the shaping around the front we decided she would have a hard time creating the movements she needed. It was determined that to go along side the draping on the stand I should pattern draft on paper, starting with the basic block and then creating a sweeping tunic with a semi circle dip at the bottom. The sides could then be gathered to add shape and create a more voluptuous figure.