A new dawn, a new day

Pattern with added tunic 

Basic Block

After the tunic turmoil, today was a fresh start. I started out making up a block pattern for my actress following the measurements taken two weeks ago. I noticed that the block seemed to look a tad different than most usual blocks as the shoulder seemed a little to long and the armhole quite small. However once I showed my lecturer (its always worth getting a second pair of eyes on something if your not sure) she confirmed it was good and I followed all the correct measurements and steps. We also started forming the tunic shape from the block. It was decided that if we add a little bit of extra length to the tunic it may be gathered at the sides to help create the robust stomach needed, as well as adding a adjustable seam allowance which may used within fittings. I also added a 5cm box pleat to the back of the tunic so that there is some room allowance. My main concern at the moment is that the room allowance at the front won't be sufficient, however I shall make a toil and alter it once placed on the stand.

Box pleat at the back of the tunic

After a rather large lunch (you have to treat yourself once in a while) I cracked on with the calico toile. I traced off the pattern and and added the curve at the bottom of the tunic to keep within the design. Once cut, pinned and sewn together I noticed that the bottom of the tunic wasn't as curved as it should have been so I placed it on the stand and cut away at the sides to create and mirror the semi circle shape. The box pleat at the back was also pressed into place with the iron and then sewn down till the fitting so it shall hold.

Tunic without sleeves

The next step was to make the sleeves. But not only one, two. The final outfit still needs to look like a dress with a tunic placed over the top, with this in mind the under sleeves shall be form fitting and in the same material the skirt shall be made out of and the top sleeve, a loose bell shape which will match the tunic.

Drafting this became a bit of a nightmare as I originally forgot to add a 5cm height to my sleeve which would help the armhole fit. After a rocky first attempt, I redrafted and then started to form the shape of the sleeves. the under sleeve needs to be form fitting, though flexible enough that the actress can be comfortable and move. I took the wrist and forearm measurements to make the sleeve fit though I shall fit it properly on the actual actress. The bell shaped sleeve looks a lot like a rocket which concerned me however once formed looked like a small bell shape. I feel this may have to be extended in shape however for the first fitting it shall work as a base.  Tomorrow afternoon shall be the time where we can find out what parts of the costumes work and which don't so much. The designer shall pick out which elements need to be added and which to scrap.