Monday, 15 October 2012

To train or not to train, that is the question


After spending a weekend researching and placing the final pins into the skirt I came to a pitstop and a question. Does the designer want a train added to the skirt. From my research I found many of the historical dresses for the more wealthy had trains added to the back of the skirt, during the medieval time period most woman showed there wealth through the fabric they wore and the amount they had within there garments. Wife of Bath is a wealthy woman but doesn't have quite the wealth of say a delegate or queen, she's a pilgrim. My personal opinion is that a small train could be added to show that she is quite wealthy however it would have to be of a length that it won't hinder the actress.

After speaking to Lauren (the designer) and studying the skirt, she decided she would like a train but would like options to choose from. Below are the 4 options I presented:

Option 1
Option 1: Option one is a traditional princess style train. It is worn to give the wearer a wealthy look as quite a lot of fabric is wrapped behind the dress as well as around. It would have been pinned during the medieval times (it is where the saying 'working for pin money' originates from) however for this garment it would have to be sewn as we cannot risk the actress having a pin stick into her on stage.

Designers Opinion: Lauren thought this was to long and though a nice shape, could cause a potential accident (which I do agree with). A smaller train would show the wealth needed without it becoming a hazard.



Option 2

Option 2: Option two is a more peasants train rather than someone of high wealth, that being said it does show a small amount of fabric. I personally feel this was quite a small train, however wanted to give the designer as many options as I could. 

Designers Opinion: Lauren felt that this was too small that the actress would not show her social standing. I suggested that it would detract from her position and on her fifth marriage, instead of marrying into nobility she became no more than a farmer's wife or a peasant. This would detract from her standing and make her on the same level as some of the other characters such as the cook. Lauren agreed and suggested that instead of shortening it to the  extreme we may try shaping it differently and adding length.  


Option 3
Option 3: Option three is a strait dart style which will create a triangle once the other half is made. I am not that keen on this piece it is to strait and precise and doesn't give the sweeping effect needed from a train. 

Designers Opinion: It was decided that this wasn't suitable for the skirt. It looks to strait cut and would give the character a strait laced and serious quality about her which isn't within her persona.



Option 4
Option 4: Option 4 combines all of the above into one train, it takes train one and two and finds a middle ground between them and opposes train three by adding the sweeping dipped curve. 

Designers Opinion: Lauren has approved this train. She has asked I cut it back 2cm just to prevent an accident however feels it would show the privilege the Wife of Bath married into.




After Lauren's decision I cut back the train by 2.3cm to keep the curve in balance and placed a bum roll under the skirt which shall help create the voluptuous figure needed. Below is the final cut and pattern which shall be used to make a mirror image of the skirt and complete the bottom half of the costume.

Top of skirt with bum roll









Full skirt with final train

No comments:

Post a Comment

please feel free to comment