Second fitting ..... bit of a tug and measure

The second fittings for Wife of bath went fairly smoothly, though every fitting has a few road bumps. The actress felt comfortable in the costume though the back of the skirt will have to be let out slightly due to it constricting her movement. The under sleeves of the tunic were my real concern as I fitted them to the actresses measurements and they were quite tight on her. It has been decided that if I give an extra 3cm arm room in the sleeve it will allow for added muscle and comfort, as well as making the top half  of the sleeve out of light weight calico and the bottom in the cotton/wool blend. This will reduce the bulk and allow the actress freedom to move. After much debate it was also decided that to make sure the skirt was level throughout, a base line should be used. This was quite new to me and I found out that if you measure from a certain point and use the same measurement all the way around the skirt pinning the cm as you go this can act as a measure line to getting the skirt the correct length all the way around. This will help during the final stages before binding the garment.

Below is the fitting sheet which shows the tasks which need to be performed before dress parade. These will have to be scheduled into the time schedule so I can keep on track and onto of the work load.

BA (Hons) Costume with Performance Design

Female Fitting Form

Production:	The Canterbury Tales	Date:	30th October 2012
Artist:	Diana Winter	Character:	Wife of Bath
Cutter:	Tanya Pye

Skirt:

• Remove 1 pleat either side of the CB line
• Make sure a secure fastening is fitted as actress is being dragged across the table.
• Hem line must be 24cm from balance line draping down into the train
• Bias tape hem line
• Overlock all seams in the same colour as fabric

Tunic:

• Only lace the sides of the tunic slightly to create shape.  (follow pins)
• Under sleeves need to be let out 3 cm each
• Top sleeve needs to be shortened by 10cm
• Fit of the sleeve is now correct
• Lower sleeve must length must come down to the hand. Lace up the sides for a tight fit.
• Lower the neckline more to a boat neck shape, mimic cut of left side.
• Centre front cut open to placed pin
• Add channel around the neckline and put a cord through to slightly gather.
• Add draped shawl around the collar area and tack in place.  
• Add brown leather thronging to the lace up arms, tunic sides, centre front gap and belt. (Being sourced)
• Belt size, 85cm with lace up back. (re-make as this is being replaced with real leather)

Diana in the Wife of Bath Costume

Personal Reflection:

Once again I have learnt some new techniques which shall really help with my future progress within costume. I took the forefront of the fitting again and I must admit I do rather enjoy this process. Diana, the actress felt comfortable within the costume as well as able to use full movement. The arms in the tunic are the only major issue which needs to be rectified, though I am also concerned about the neckline. Once the slit at the front has been cut to reveal the bust it shall relieve the tunics strain slightly